Among all the carrier oils available to aromatherapists, jojoba is the one that people find hardest to classify. It looks like an oil, it pours like an oil, and it is sold with the vegetable oils. But chemically, jojoba is not an oil at all. It is a liquid wax. This isn’t a technicality. It explains almost everything that makes jojoba such a valuable base for essential oils: its remarkable stability, its skin-friendly feel and its long shelf life. In this article, I’ll explain what jojoba is, why it works so well with essential oils, and how to get the best from it.
What Is Jojoba?
Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) is a hardy shrub native to the Sonoran Desert of the southwestern United States and northwestern Mexico. Its seeds contain about 50% liquid wax, which the plant uses as an energy reserve in an environment that gives very little water.
Indigenous peoples of the region, including the Tohono O’odham, used jojoba for skin care and hair conditioning long before it had a place in a commercial catalog. Its modern history dates to the early 1970s, when restrictions on sperm whale oil left industry looking for a replacement for a highly stable, high-performance lubricant and cosmetic ingredient. Jojoba turned out to be a very good one, and plantations were established in Israel, Argentina, Australia, Peru and elsewhere.
Why “Liquid Wax” Matters
Most carrier oils are triglycerides, meaning three fatty acids attached to a glycerol backbone. Jojoba is made up mainly of wax esters, long-chain fatty acids joined to long-chain fatty alcohols.
This structure has several consequences:
Exceptional oxidative stability. Oils go rancid when their unsaturated fatty acids react with oxygen. Jojoba has relatively few double bonds and a very different molecular structure, so it resists oxidation extremely well. A good-quality jojoba oil can keep for several years, far longer than sunflower, grapeseed or sweet almond oil.
Similarity to skin’s own lipids. Human sebum contains wax esters as a significant component. Jojoba is not identical to sebum, and I would be cautious about the more extravagant claims made for it. But it is chemically closer to sebum than most carrier oils are, which may partly explain why so many people find it feels comfortable on the skin.
A pleasant, non-greasy feel. Jojoba absorbs steadily without leaving the heavy film of some oils, and it has a smooth, silky slip that is well suited to massage.
A low tendency to block pores. Jojoba is generally regarded as having low comedogenic potential, though individual skin varies.
Jojoba as a Base for Essential Oils
Jojoba is a very good partner for essential oils, and the reasons go beyond convenience.
A Stable, Neutral Foundation
When you blend essential oils into a carrier, you want the carrier to support the blend, not compete with it. Jojoba has a very mild, faintly nutty aroma, and refined (clear) jojoba is almost odorless. This lets the essential oils’ fragrance come through cleanly.
Its stability is also useful for blends you plan to keep. A blend made with a fast-deteriorating carrier will spoil, regardless of the quality of the essential oils. Using jojoba removes one of the most common causes of spoilage. I should be clear, however, that jojoba does not stop the essential oils themselves from oxidizing. Store your blends in dark glass, well capped, and away from heat.
Natural Perfumery
Jojoba is the classic base for natural perfume oils and roll-ons, because it does not turn rancid, stays clear and evaporates very slowly. Perfumers often like it for solid perfumes too, where it is melted with beeswax.
Facial and Sensitive Skin
For blends applied to the face, jojoba is generally a more comfortable choice than heavier oils such as coconut. It sits well with 1% or lower dilutions of gentle oils like lavender, frankincense, neroli or Roman chamomile, and it is a popular base for serums.
Aromatherapy Massage
Jojoba’s glide is excellent for massage, though it is a costly choice for whole-body treatments. Many therapists solve this by blending jojoba at 10–20% with a less expensive carrier, such as sweet almond or sunflower oil, to combine jojoba’s stability with the lower cost of the bulk oil. Doing so also extends the shelf life of the mix.
Golden or Clear?
You will see jojoba sold in two main forms.
Golden (unrefined) jojoba is cold-pressed, with a light yellow color and a mild, slightly nutty scent. It retains more of its natural components, including vitamin E and other minor compounds.
Clear (refined) jojoba has been filtered and deodorized. It is almost odorless and colorless, and it is the better choice if you want a totally neutral base, for example for delicate perfumes.
Both are excellent. If your blend is strongly scented, the difference will hardly be noticeable. If you use a delicate floral or citrus oil, clear jojoba is probably a better match.
How to Use Jojoba With Essential Oils
Jojoba mixes easily with essential oils, which dissolve readily in it. A few simple guidelines follow.
Dilution ratios (for 30 ml / 1 fl oz)
- 0.5% (3 drops): delicate facial skin, very sensitive skin
- 1% (6 drops): everyday facial and body blends
- 2% (12 drops): general massage
- 3% (18 drops): short-term, localized blends
Roll-on blend (10 ml bottle): Fill a glass roll-on bottle with jojoba oil, leaving a little space at the top. Add 2–6 drops of essential oil (1–3%), cap it, and roll the bottle gently between your palms. Label it with the ingredients and the date.
A simple calming blend (1%, in 30 ml of jojoba):
- 3 drops lavender
- 2 drops mandarin
- 1 drop frankincense
Because jojoba is a solid at lower temperatures, it may cloud or become cloudy if stored in a cool room. This is harmless. It solidifies at about 10°C (50°F), and warms back to a liquid in your hands.
Points to Watch
Jojoba is not for eating. Its wax esters are indigestible, and some jojoba contains erucic acid-related components. It should be used on the skin and hair only.
Allergies are rare but possible. True jojoba allergy is uncommon, but a patch test is a good habit with any new product.
Price and authenticity. Jojoba is more expensive than many carriers, and, sadly, adulteration with cheaper oils occurs. Buy from a supplier who gives clear information on origin, refining and testing.
Sustainability. Jojoba is a fairly sustainable crop, well suited to arid land and requiring little water once established, which is a point in its favor.
Final Thoughts
Jojoba is not simply another carrier oil. It is a stable, elegant and skin-friendly liquid wax that suits essential oil blending better than almost any other base. It will not be the cheapest choice, but a little goes a long way, and its long shelf life means less waste. Whether you are creating a roll-on perfume, a facial serum or a bedtime massage blend, jojoba gives your essential oils the best possible foundation. Choose a good-quality product, dilute wisely, and enjoy the results.